A beautiful day in Yamakoshi

With a good forecast for today with the promise of a least some sunshine I planned to head up to Mushigame for the day.

Unfortunately my truck is presently out of service.  Every 2 years vehicles have to be subjected to an inspection test known as 'shaken' (pronounced with an 'a' as in apple').  It's a little over 2 years since I purchased my kei truck with the intention of using it for just the original year I was staying, when I did so it had a new shaken carried out by JA.  Upon speaking to Hiromi san's brother who is a mechanic just before Christmas about what the cost was for a shaken to be carried out he advised around 100,000yen, at todays exchange rate around £700.  Admitedly this does include 2 years 'basic' insurance, what it actually covers though I've no idea, the driver who knocked me off my bike apparently has no insurance to cover my damage, but that's another story.  However, Hiromi san's brother also stated my truck was no good and to pay to have the shaken done was a waste of money!  Who say's the Japanese never give a straight answer!  In view of that, my present employment status - http://www.niigata-nishikigoi.com/node/633, the fact that much of the mountains are out of reach for the next few months anyway, I'll be using public transport to get around, or begging lifts so if you are in town be prepared!   In actually thoroughly enjoy walking around the mountains, it gives a whole new perspective to driving around, people whom I've just driven past over the last 2 years now say hello as we walk past one another, on top of that the excercise can only be a good thing!

So, at 9.15am this morning I popped into Takano Supermarket for some breakfast before waiting at the bus stop outside the post office for the 9.30am bus to Shiodani, my plan to get off in Iwamagi, catch the love bus - http://www.niigata-nishikigoi.com/node/599 - to Yamakoshi Branch Office where I'd buy a yearly 'love bus' pass for the princely sum of 3000yen, before making my way around to Mushigame.

As I sat waiting a steady flow of tipper lorries passed with loads of snow, all around Ojiya teams are working to clear much of the snow that is lying around, particularly along the sides of the roads and on the canopies above the shops in the heart of town.

9.30am came and went with no sign of a bus displaying the kanji characters for Shiodani which I'd memorised.  It was a case of de ja vu, I'd tried the same journey on 21st December and the bus never came, despite my timetable 'clearly' showing a bus arriving at 9.30am.  On that occasion I'd put it down to the snow delaying the bus and gave up, taking a taxi instead.  Resigned to the fact that my timetable printed from the Internet must be wrong I decided to take a bus towards Nagaoka, this would enable me to get off at Uragara Tunnel and pop to see Tsuyoshi san before making my way towards Yamakoshi.

Around 9.40am 2 buses approached, the first with some kanji that meant nothing to me, the second I could recognise as Nagaoka station so I took that one.  Both buses headed off in unison towards Ojiya Station before turning left.  As we reached Isa Koi Farm the bus in front indicated right, as would a bus going to Shiodani, in fact that's the only direction it could possibly go towards.  I grabbed my timetable in a bid to match the kanji on the buses sign.  All became clear, the 9.30am bus actually only goes as far as Iwamagi, not to Utogi or Shiodani.

I was hopeful that the route my bus was on was quicker and I would be able to get off at Uragara Tunnel, nip through it, and still catch the Iwamagi bus.  As I emerged from the tunnel the bus sailed past, had someone have been getting off at that stop I'd have been in luck but it wasn't to be, as such I proceeded on foot to Torazo.

I was sorry to learn, and I'm sorry to report, the death of Kentaro Hoshino of Gontaro Koi Farm in Takezawa Village.  Whilst I've never visited Gontaro it means the loss of another of the generation that shaped the industry, so soon after the death of Tokuzo Miya in late December.

Tsuyoshi san was due to visit the funeral so after a brief coffee I made my way onwards towards Yamakoshi.

As I was walking past Otsuka Koi Farm a Dainichi kei truck passed me and pulled over before reversing in my direction.  It was Takashi Hirasawa who I'd met at the Dainichi OB Kai event - http://www.niigata-nishikigoi.com/node/611.  When he asked where I was going and duly insisted on giving me a lift I have to admit it was quite welcome, walking home from Yamakoshi is always more appealing than walking to Yamakoshi for obvious reasons.

I mentioned the other day that I met someone that works in Yamakoshi Branch Office at the Yamanaka Sainokami - http://www.niigata-nishikigoi.com/node/639.  She, along with 2 others that speak English, actually work in the information centre next to the main Branch Office building.  I figured the easy option in sorting a bus pass would be to go there first, they'd surely take me to the right place and it would be very simple.  I took the other option and went straight to the main building. 

As I walked through the door there seemed to be a look of horror on everyones faces, did my reputation proceed me?  One of the dozen or so staff approached me and I asked for a 'Clover Bus pass please'.  She pointed to the furthest of 4 customer service tables.  At this point there was clearly a case of who speaks the most English going on.  Another gentleman entered the office and was universally nominated to deal with me, Maruyama san (wahoo, I can read some kanji on his name badge) started to speak to me in fluent Japanese of which I understood almost none.  I think he was trying to tell me somewhat reluctantly, in a roundabout way, that I had to pay for a bus pass, something I knew.  A few minutes later a familiar face turned up, it was Saito san's brother who works at branch office and I suspect had been primed for the fact I was likely to turn up some time.  Seconds later one of the girls from the 'other' building arrived and was duly drafted in as translator, something at first she seemed quite horrified about, despite the fact it transpired she spoke perfect English.  Anyway, in no time we were sorted, my pass arrives in a couple of days, the bus company know I've paid and I can use the 'love bus' at any time.

The visitor centre is actually well worth a visit for anyone in the area, often you will find photographic displays there, you can also buy a range of souvenirs including books, postcards, t-shirts and other items that are not readily available elsewhere.

With my bus pass sorted I set off to walk around to Mushigame.  In most places the accumulated snow was a good 2.5 metres making the chances of taking pictures impossible.

Just past the school there were some workmen who it appeard had been busy clearing potentially dangerous snow from the mountainside, fortunately they'd punched a hole through the 'barrier' affording a view of what are mainly the Shintaro mud ponds which have provided such enjoyment over the last 2 summers.  The much hoped for sun was just starting to break through.

Progressing further around towards Maruju Koi Farm the view looking across to Mushigame where the sound of snow clearing was evident, everyone keen to clear as much residual snow in what may be just a short respite period.

As I passed Maruju everyone was just off to lunch so I continued my walk through the main part of the village. 

I'm not sure where the last 10 days have gone, apart from being snowed in!  Today was actually the first time I've managed to catch with with Saito and Hiromo san since I've been back.  Having quickly put the world to rights over a jug of coffee Hiromi san asked if I liked Chinese cabbage.  Absolutely I do, I've used it when cooking oriental food as well as a salad ingredient in the UK.  I've oft mentioned Shousuke Saito's delicious home grown produce, it seems that this year he's grown a few too many Chinese cabbage, something grown widely in the mountains.  Hiromi san recommended that I cook with bacon and consomme to make a soup and in no time at all a food parcel with all the ingredients for a weeks worth of Chinese cabbage and bacon soup were in a bag waiting for my departure.

As I wanted to see the Shintaro tosai and then walk around the mountains taking photos I left the ingredients as I'd collect them on my way back down towards Iwamagi later in the afternoon.

The first impression on entering the tosai house was how much they'd grown, it's fully 4 weeks since I've last seen them.  They've also been sorted through in that time, now 600 remain split equally over 4 ponds.  The best Sanke are now around 25cm.  As I stood watching further as they fed something else was apparent, the beni was less intense whilst the shiroji and general skin seemed much brighter.  It transpires that they are being given very little colour food this year.  My obsession with Showa is little secret, the beni patterns on the Shintaro Showa this year are markedly different from last year, despite being the same parents, this year they are more 'interesting', Koi breeding becomes ever more interesting.

From Shintaro I headed up firstly to Kato san's house before heading to the house I long ago declared had the best view in Mushigame, if not the whole of Yamakoshi, the house pictured below.  As I arrived Mrs Ikarashi was busy putting her laundry out of the upstairs window.  We exchanged greetings about how beautiful the snow looked, all I could see was a white 2m wall and felt sure her view was far better than mine.

If you look at the above picture you can see some 'indentations' in the snow at the far end.  They were already there however I confess to making them somewhat larger.  Desperate to see a view equal to that Mrs Ikarashi could see, although not wishing to be invited to her bedroom, I chose to scale the snow wall.  It was worth it, the picture below is the view from the Ikarashi house this afternoon.

Some other views as I made way around.....

The view from Marusada.

The view from Maruju.

Whilst chatting with Shigeyoshi at Maruju a Koi feeder went off.  This particular pond contained some Koi which are potentially going to the Wakagoi Show in April.  One particular Koi is a very impressive 61cm Ginrin Tancho Kohaku.  The Tancho is great, the ginrin is great, the body is even better.  At 61cm it's well placed in size and could well be best in variety, remember where you read it first!

With a bus to catch from Iwamagi I headed back to Shintaro to collect my Chinese cabbage and associated ingredients and make my way back down.

On arrival at Shintaro Hiromi san, despite my protests, tried to call Saito san to give me a lift.  He didn't pick up and I insisted it was no problem walking home, all along that was my intention anyway.

Making my way out of Mushigame to my left hand side was a constant wall of 2m+ snow.  Probably the best spot to take a pic is just by Shintaro's storage shed.  Having been subjected 2 days of sunshine the snow here was perhaps 1.5m but, given it was 70cm wide, the snow mound prevented taking pictures.  I decided to break a ladder into the snow so I could get some pictures.  As I beat the snow with my forearm, protected by my waterproof jacket, a vehicle came around the corner.  It was Saito san in his truck.  That gave me a platform from which to get above the accumulated snow!!

Saito san had in fact came chasing after me to give me a lift home to Ojiya, something I insisted I didn't need and wanted to walk to Iwamagi.  'Really, really?', he persisted.  'Yes, really!', I insisted.  As such I continued down the hill.

As you make your way down you can look back up the valley visible from both Ikarashi san's house and the Breakfast Spot, although the view isn't as good.  From that position the trek to the Breakfast Spot looks far easier than I expect it's going to be.  We'll see what the weather does but maybe something for later in the week.

At one point I feared my stopping to take pictures was going to make me late to arrive at Iwamagi, I arrived at 4.20pm, just before the 'Love Bus' arrived to collect the school children making their way back home from Ojiya.

A great day back in the mountains.  Mushigame is somewhere where I'm planning a documentary DVD over the next 12 months, one of several DVD project that will be released during that period, that 'love bus' is going to come in handy!